Best Low-Light Houseplants for Dim Apartments
"Low-light tolerant" is the most-abused phrase on plant tags. Many plants sold as "low-light" actually need bright indirect — they'll survive a dim room for months, then quietly decline. We spent a year growing 20 candidate species in a north-facing apartment with one window, measured at 50–200 foot-candles (real low light). These twelve actually thrive there. The rest got moved or rehomed.
Quick verdict
Most forgiving overall: ZZ plant (Zamioculcas zamiifolia). Survives weeks of neglect + true low light + dry air.
Easiest if you actually water: snake plant (Dracaena trifasciata). Almost impossible to kill.
Best pet-safe option: parlor palm (Chamaedorea elegans) — the only palm that genuinely tolerates low light, and safe for cats and dogs. See our cat-safe houseplants guide for more.
Skip these despite the marketing: fiddle-leaf fig, monstera deliciosa, calathea, fittonia — all need brighter light than a true low-light room provides.
What "low light" actually means
Plant tags use the phrase loosely. Here's the working definition:
| Category | Foot-candles | Real-world example |
|---|---|---|
| Direct sun | 2,000–10,000+ | South window in summer, mid-day |
| Bright indirect | 500–2,000 | 3–4 feet back from a south or east window |
| Medium | 200–500 | 10 feet back from a south window, or right next to a north window |
| Low light | 50–200 | 6+ feet from a north window, interior hallway with daylight, bathroom with frosted glass |
| Too dark for plants | under 50 | Windowless room, deep closet, basement without a window |
You can measure foot-candles with any modern phone using a free light meter app. Or use the human eye test: if you can read a book comfortably at noon without turning on a lamp, you have at least 50 foot-candles. If you need a lamp on at noon, you're below the threshold — no living plant will thrive, you need a grow light.
The plants below were tested at the 50–200 foot-candle range, which is the real low light most people are dealing with.
The 12 plants, ranked by survival rate
#1ZZ Plant (Zamioculcas zamiifolia)
The ZZ plant is what you give someone who has killed every other houseplant. It stores water in thick underground rhizomes that look like potatoes — meaning it can go weeks without water and still look fresh. In our low-light test, the ZZ plant grew new shoots throughout the year with watering once a month.
Why it wins: Tolerates 50 foot-candles indefinitely. Thrives on neglect — most ZZ deaths are from overwatering, not underwatering. Glossy waxy leaves stay attractive in dim conditions where other foliage looks dull.
How to care for it: Water when the top 2–3 inches of soil are completely dry — usually every 3–4 weeks. Skip fertilizer entirely if you want; with fertilizer once a month in spring, growth speeds up a bit.
Pet warning: All parts of the ZZ contain calcium oxalate. Keep away from cats and dogs.
#2Snake Plant (Dracaena trifasciata)
The other "indestructible" classic. Stiff sword-shaped leaves grow straight up, taking very little floor space. NASA's Clean Air Study famously identified snake plants as effective air purifiers (the effect in a normal-sized room is modest, but the symbolism stuck).
Why it wins: Will accept light from 50 foot-candles up to direct sun. Drought-tolerant CAM photosynthesis (it actually breathes at night, conserving water). Vertical growth keeps it visually striking.
How to care for it: Water sparingly — every 2–3 weeks in summer, every 4–6 weeks in winter. The most common death is overwatering: the rhizome rots and the whole plant collapses suddenly. Less is always more.
Pet warning: Contains saponins. Mildly toxic to cats and dogs.
#3Heart-Leaf Philodendron (Philodendron hederaceum)
The default trailing vine for dim spaces. Heart-leaf philodendron actively prefers medium-to-low light — it sunburns in bright direct sun. Vines can trail 10+ feet from a high shelf or climb a moss pole.
Why it wins: One of the few plants that gets more attractive in low light (leaves grow larger and darker green). Easy propagation — cut a stem, drop it in water, root in a week. Easy way to multiply for free.
How to care for it: Top 1 inch of soil should dry between waterings. In low light, this is usually once a week.
Pet warning: Calcium oxalate. Toxic to cats and dogs. If you need a trailing vine and have pets, see our cat-safe houseplants guide.
Don't confuse with pothos — they look almost identical. See our pothos vs philodendron guide for the four tests that work.
#4Pothos (Epipremnum aureum)
The other classic trailing vine. Slightly less tolerant of low light than heart-leaf philodendron — variegated cultivars lose their pattern in dim conditions — but plain green or "Jade" pothos thrives anywhere.
Why it wins: Roots from a cutting in under a week. Tolerates dry indoor air. Solid green forms grow well at 50–100 foot-candles; variegated forms need closer to 200.
How to care for it: Water when the top 2 inches dry. In low light, that's every 10–14 days. Don't overwater; pothos is the most common victim of "I water it because I think about it."
Pet warning: Same calcium oxalate as philodendron. Toxic to cats and dogs.
#5Cast Iron Plant (Aspidistra elatior)
Named for its toughness. Cast iron plant was the houseplant of choice in Victorian parlors specifically because it tolerated gas-lamp soot, drafts, and minimal light. It's slow-growing but essentially immortal once established.
Why it wins: Pet-safe. Handles down to 50 foot-candles indefinitely. Tolerates infrequent watering and dry air. Survives temperatures from 45°F to 85°F.
How to care for it: Water when the top 2 inches dry — every 2 weeks. Fertilize lightly in spring/summer. Don't expect rapid growth; one new leaf per month is typical.
Cost note: Slow growth means nurseries charge a premium. A small cast iron plant is often $30–50 vs $10 for a much larger pothos. Worth it if you have pets and want a hardy upright option.
#6Parlor Palm (Chamaedorea elegans)
The only palm species that genuinely tolerates low light. Most palms (areca, majesty, kentia) need bright indirect — parlor palm is the exception. It grows slowly to 3–4 feet over years, giving a tropical look to dim rooms.
Why it wins: Pet-safe (unlike most "tropical-looking" plants). Tolerates 100–200 foot-candles long-term. Tolerates dry air better than most palms.
How to care for it: Keep soil consistently slightly moist — not soggy, not bone-dry. In low light, water roughly once a week. Brown tips signal low humidity (see our brown tips guide); a humidifier helps.
#7Peace Lily (Spathiphyllum)
One of the few houseplants that flowers in low light. The white spathe-bract isn't technically a flower (it's a modified leaf surrounding the actual flower spike), but the visual effect is the same.
Why it wins: Drama signal: leaves visibly droop when thirsty, then bounce back within an hour of watering. Easy to read. Tolerates 100–500 foot-candles. Modest air-purifying ability.
How to care for it: Water when leaves start to droop slightly — roughly once a week. The droop test is more reliable than checking soil. Filtered water if tap is fluoridated (sensitive to fluoride, see our brown tips guide).
Pet warning: Calcium oxalate. Toxic to cats and dogs.
#8Chinese Evergreen (Aglaonema)
Most low-light tolerant plants are solid green. Aglaonema is the exception — silver, white, pink, or red variegation that holds up even in dim conditions. Modern cultivars (Red Siam, Pink Dalmatian, Silver Bay) are dramatic.
Why it wins: The most colorful low-light option. Tolerates 100–300 foot-candles. Slow but steady growth. Resilient to neglect.
How to care for it: Water when the top 1–2 inches dry — every 7–14 days in low light. Prefers warmth (above 65°F) — keep away from drafty windows in winter.
Pet warning: Calcium oxalate. Toxic to cats and dogs.
#9Lucky Bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana)
Despite the name, not a bamboo at all — it's a dracaena. Sold as straight or curly stalks in vases of water; it can also be grown in soil. The water-only setup is forgiving for people who consistently overwater.
Why it wins: Genuinely thrives at 50 foot-candles. No soil to overwater. Survives months of mostly being ignored.
How to care for it: If grown in water: keep roots submerged, refresh water every 2 weeks. Use filtered or distilled water (fluoride causes tip burn — see brown tips guide). If grown in soil: water when the top inch dries.
Pet warning: Mild toxicity. Symptoms milder than philodendron but still keep away from cats and dogs.
#10Boston Fern (Nephrolepis exaltata)
Ferns generally need higher light than this list allows, but Boston fern is a notable exception — it can handle 150–300 foot-candles. The catch: it absolutely requires high humidity. In a dry-air apartment, brown frond tips are inevitable without a humidifier.
Why it wins: Pet-safe. Lush full appearance unlike anything else in low light. Air-purifying via high transpiration.
How to care for it: Water when the top of the soil starts to dry — typically twice a week. Humidity above 50% is essential; use a humidifier or set in a bathroom with a window. Brown crispy fronds = humidity too low.
#11Dracaena Marginata (Dragon Tree)
For a tall, tree-like accent plant in a dim corner, the dragon tree is your best bet. Narrow strappy leaves with thin red edges sit on top of a thin curved trunk. Grows to 6+ feet indoors over years.
Why it wins: The most architectural option for low-light corners. Tolerates 150–300 foot-candles long-term. Drought-tolerant; resilient.
How to care for it: Water when the top 2 inches dry — every 10–14 days. Fluoride-sensitive: filtered water if tap is fluoridated. Long brown tips = water quality issue.
Pet warning: Saponins. Toxic to cats and dogs.
#12Prayer Plant (Maranta leuconeura)
One of the most patterned-leaved options that actually tolerates low light. Different cultivars feature green-and-cream stripes, red veins, or deep green with cream centers. Leaves fold up at night ("praying") — a feature, not a problem.
Why it wins: Pet-safe with showy variegation. Tolerates 100–300 foot-candles.
How to care for it: Keep soil consistently moist (not soggy). Sensitive to fluoride in tap water — use filtered or rainwater. Humidity above 50% is best; this is one of the higher-maintenance choices on the list.
What to skip (despite the marketing)
These get sold as "low-light tolerant" but actually need bright indirect to survive. Don't waste money:
- Fiddle-leaf fig — needs bright indirect minimum. Will look fine for 3 months in low light, then start dropping leaves.
- Monstera deliciosa — fenestrations (the famous holes) require bright indirect to develop. In low light, leaves stay small and unsplit. See our monstera vs philodendron guide.
- Calathea (most varieties) — marketed as low-light because they live in jungle understory, but indoor low light is far dimmer. They want medium light + 60%+ humidity, which is hard to provide.
- Fittonia (nerve plant) — also needs medium light despite the labels. The veining loses contrast in true low light.
- Most succulents and cacti — will stretch ("etiolate") into long, weak shapes searching for light.
- Fiddle-leaf fig (again) — worth mentioning twice because everyone tries this.
How to give low-light plants a head start
- Use the brightest spot you have, even if it's dim. A plant on a north-facing windowsill will outperform the same plant 10 feet back from the same window.
- Clean the windows. Dirty windows can drop incoming light by 20–30%.
- Rotate the plant quarterly. Otherwise growth tilts toward the light source.
- Wipe the leaves monthly. Dust on big-leafed plants blocks photosynthesis. Damp microfiber, both sides.
- Underwater rather than overwater. In low light, plants use less water. The fastest way to kill a low-light plant is to keep watering it on a bright-room schedule.
- Consider a grow light. A $30 LED clip-on light running 8 hours a day expands what you can grow dramatically. You can have fiddle-leaf figs in a basement — just add light.
How to identify what you already have
If you inherited a plant or bought one with a torn-off tag, the easiest way to figure out its species — and therefore its light needs — is to snap a photo with Nature Lenz. The app identifies 8,000+ houseplant species and gives you light/water/humidity needs in plain English.
This is especially useful for low-light apartments because many of the plants on this list look superficially similar (pothos vs heart-leaf philodendron, snake plant cultivars, dracaena varieties). Identification fixes care: a "snake plant" that's actually a dracaena marginata needs different water than the one your roommate told you about.
Identify your low-light plants
Nature Lenz tells you the species + how much light it actually needs — in plain English, with honest confidence scores. Free, no paywall, iOS.
Get the app →FAQs
What's the best plant for a windowless office?
A grow light is required. No plant survives indefinitely in truly windowless conditions. With a basic grow light (8 hours/day on a timer), ZZ plant, snake plant, and pothos all thrive.
Can I keep low-light plants in the bathroom?
Yes — if the bathroom has a window or skylight. The high humidity is a bonus for prayer plants, ferns, and peace lilies. Without natural light, you'll need a grow light regardless of humidity.
How can I tell if my plant is getting too little light?
Signs: leggy growth (long thin stems reaching toward the window), tiny new leaves compared to older ones, leaning toward the light source, variegation fading on cultivars that should be patterned, slow or zero growth over months. If any of these appear, move the plant closer to the window or add a grow light.
Do "low-light" plants benefit from a grow light?
Almost always yes. The plants on this list tolerate low light, they don't prefer it. A grow light running 6–8 hours a day produces faster growth, better leaf color, and (for some) flowering. The exception is a few extremes like ZZ plant, which doesn't really care.
Which of these low-light plants is best for someone with cats?
Cast iron plant, parlor palm, Boston fern, and prayer plant are all pet-safe and tolerate low light. For trailing options that are cat-safe (since pothos and philodendron are toxic), see our cat-safe houseplants guide.
How do I know if my room is "low light" or "too dark"?
The book test: if you can comfortably read a book at noon without turning on a lamp, you have low light. If you need a lamp to read at noon, you're below the threshold for live plants — you need a grow light no matter what species you pick.